If your dog barks, lunges, growls or spins on the lead when they see another dog, a person or a bike, you are far from alone. It's one of the most common reasons UK owners look for help. Walks can become stressful, and many owners start walking at odd hours just to avoid other people. It's not your fault, and it can get better.
What “reactive” means
“Reactive” describes a dog that over-reacts to something it sees, hears or smells. That “something” is called a trigger. Common triggers are other dogs, strangers, children, bikes, runners and traffic.
The reaction is usually driven by one of two feelings:
- Fear: “Go away, I don't feel safe.” The dog tries to make the trigger leave.
- Frustration: “I want to get to it and I can't.” Often seen in sociable dogs held back by a lead.
Being on a lead makes both worse, because the dog can't move away or say hello in a normal dog way. That's why many dogs that are fine off lead react on it.
Reactivity and aggression towards other dogs
There's no hard line between the two, but this is a useful guide. Barking and lunging to make another dog go away is reactivity. If your dog has bitten, tries to reach and grab other dogs, or fights with dogs at home, treat it as aggression. That doesn't make your dog “bad”. It means you need professional help sooner, and you should keep everyone safe in the meantime. Under UK law, it's an offence to let any dog be dangerously out of control, which is another reason to act early.
What you can do from today
- Give space. Find the distance at which your dog notices a trigger but can still take a treat and listen to you. That's where learning happens. Closer than that, they're too stressed to learn.
- Choose quieter walks. Go at quieter times, pick routes with long sightlines so you see dogs coming, and avoid narrow paths where you can't step aside.
- Practise a U-turn. Teach a cheerful “this way!” and turn away, at home first, then on walks. It gets you out of tight spots calmly.
- Reward calm looking. When your dog sees a trigger at a comfortable distance and stays calm, mark it and give a treat. Over time, the trigger starts to predict good things.
- Take days off. A big reaction leaves a dog wound up for hours or days. Sniffy walks in quiet places, or games at home, give them time to settle.
- Keep a diary of what sets your dog off, where, and how close. It helps you spot patterns and is very useful for a professional.
- Use a comfortable harness and a lead long enough to stay loose. A yellow ribbon or “I need space” lead sign can help others give you room.
What to avoid
- Punishment: shouting, lead jerks or spray collars. Your dog may stop barking but still feel scared, and can go on to bite without warning.
- Forcing meetings or “letting them sort it out”. This usually makes things worse.
- Busy dog parks and crowded paths while you're working on it. Every big reaction is practice at reacting.
When to get professional help
Get help if:
- your dog has bitten, or tried to
- reactions are getting more frequent or more intense
- it started suddenly, or your dog seems sore, stiff or unwell
- walks have become something you or your dog dread
- dogs in your home are fighting
Start with your vet. Pain is a common, easily missed cause of reactivity and aggression. Your vet can also refer you to a Clinical Animal Behaviourist, Veterinary Behaviourist or Accredited Animal Behaviourist. They only see clients on veterinary referral (ABTC). Our guide to who can help with reactivity explains each role, and there's a separate section on growling, snapping and guarding.